The tables were loaded, the pourers in pole position. I walked into a well-turned banquet room at Covent Garden members club The Hospital at six-thirty, fashionably later than the plucky crowd of trade buyers, wine lovers and hangers-on. Shirt-sleeves rolled, glasses swirling with air-flung quotes and quickly jotted-down notes, the eno-pros are anything but time-wasters. All comments made to the uber-helpful Armit staff were precise and swift. In a delightful contrast, the sophisticated swiggers and plus-ones lingered about, making the rest of us look a tad bit more relaxed.
A stunning display of France and Italy’s finest, with a bit of Chilean, German and Spanish wines, were sampled with a range of cunning to glee. The Armit gang assisted in the evening’s arduous task: swirl-sniff-taste-repeat. The event was appropriately buzzing, with the usual suspects at the Classics table (think Sassicaia 1999, Tenuta San Guido and Sperss 2006, Angelo Gaia) and others planted at the Sesti favourite, Phenomena 2004, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva.
The most interesting wines tasted, in no particular order:
Rioja is often overlooked for its ubiquitousness at the top of mid-priced menu wine lists and supermarket shelves, and to be honest I nearly walked right past a few contendors. Thankfully my antennae were up, and I was rewarded with a wonderfully juicy, fruit-forward Vina Ardanza Rioja Alta Riserva Especial, 2001. In what La Rioja Alta considers the greatest years (there have been three to date, 2001, 1973, and 1964) the wine is called Reserva Especial.
With faded, ruby highlights in the glass, it shows its ripening age like a grande dame. On the nose, it was all sticky red fruit and cassis, with lighter herbal and balsamic notes. A strong acidic backbone indicate this Rioja has a good fifteen to twenty years in her, at least, and tannins were well blended from thirty-six months of American oak cask ageing. The finish was persistent and smoky, leaving a velvety sensation in the mouth.
Dal Forno Romano has hit a high note with its Valpolicella Superiore DOC 2005. Purity of fruit, with swathes of black cherry and prune on the nose, was followed by deeper notes of chocolate, licorice and tobacco. A strong minerality was noted, as were pronounced tannins that will certainly soften, although they are not altogether spiky at present. This wine will age impeccably with time, and has a proper dose of acidity to hold its structure in balance.
Two white Burgundies were standouts, respectively. The renowned winery Maison Deux Montille, is now exclusively represented by Armit in the UK. Their Mersault Les Grand Charrons 2007 offered a persistence predicted by the lusciousness of its bouquet. White-fleshed orchard fruits and herbaceous notes were matched by a marvelous minerality and complex finish. Rully Blanc 1er Cru 2008, Leflaive et Associes, offered a grassy, honeysuckle nose followed by balanced acidity and early summer fruit.
A special mention must be made for the Piemontese vineyard Bruno Giacosa. Their Nebbiolo d’Alba 2009 offered balmy forest fruits and a smoky, bacon finish. The true stand-out was Barolo Falletto di Serralunga 2007, though. Rose petals flirting with Kentucky tobacco on the nose was followed by rounded tannins and a finish that followed me to the next tasting table.
Bravo to Armit for a spectacular Annual Tasting.
